Nanette Thorell

Egg Art Class is Fine-Tuned, Finished, and Ready to Fly

Whew! After a month (or two) of planning, preparing, making and photographing eggs, scanning instructions, and writing up descriptions like crazy, my egg art class is now finished and ready for clients.

Back-story: I had a brainstorm, sometime back in May, to teach egg art classes online through email. Yes, I know, there is a lot of information out there on the internet already, but it’s pretty scattered, and any classes available are physical classes (where you go to someones house, a college, or a community center, hopefully there is a class near your home . . .) and spend an evening learning the art of Pysanky. Which is great – don’t get me wrong – these classes and the teachers are awesome, and it is by way of one of these home classes (that my sister attended) that I came to be introduced to Ukrainian Egg Art in the first place.

But there just wasn’t a comprehensive class being taught online for people who are not able to attend a class for one reason or another. Maybe they couldn’t drive, maybe they live up on a mountain (like I do), maybe they didn’t enjoy group sessions, maybe they had eight kids and nobody to babysit.

Enter brainstorm: I love to teach, I’m good at writing up procedures (part of my job many years ago), I know the art of the egg thoroughly. Hey – what could be easier or more perfect?!

So that’s how I arrived here. And, despite my single-minded obsession throughout the whole process, I have thoroughly enjoyed the process of developing this class. I spent at least a week deciding on which egg designs to offer. I didn’t want to do the same design (that black egg with a red star and pointy thingies coming out of it) that I see on all the other beginning instructions – I wanted something different. So I made up a few (one traditional Ukrainian style and one Folk Art style), which utilized the colors I wanted to use, gave an example of orange wash, and were pretty to look at.

I added a few tricks I have learned along the way, I made up a bunch of egg drying racks (with really nice wood) and some kistka cleaning wires with a wooden handle to make it easy to find on your desk, and a strip of measuring tape to send along with the class tuition. So newbie eggers get something extra with my class that they don’t get everywhere else.

And, like I said, it’s comprehensive. It doesn’t just stop when you finish decorating the egg. You learn how to blow out the insides (with a tool – not with your mouth, ew.), sterilize it, varnish it, and then I give you plans for another egg – with a more advanced design. And I even give you a nice little stand to display your work!

So there you have it. Go check me out, you don’t have to sign up for the class right away – go ahead and get the free preview package. I put it up two places, here at my blog (click that “Egg Art Class” tab up there on the right) or at nanettethorell.com

And now, I better go catch up on a months’ worth of back-burner stuff!

~Nan

My New Jewelry Is Finished! My New Jewelry Is Finished!

Link: Enchanted Hen Productions Ostrich Eggshell Jewelry

Yes, I am excited.  This is the first batch since moving to the Land of Enchantment, and it’s a good feeling to be settled in my studio and producing again.

It’s always interesting to see the final results as opposed to the work-in-progress.  The pieces might start out kind of uninteresting, until I get the final coat of finish on them, adding depth and bringing out the colors.  My fave result was with the simple design of the Trypillian Spiral earrings which were fairly cool looking in production but the black on brick contrast was much more dramatic when finished.

And then there are the Ukrainian designs with their warm reds and golds – they’re so pretty, I’ll post a picture here.

Ukrainian Quilt pin & earrings set

And this is just the first batch!  I still have a ton of work ahead of me and more new designs, but it does please me to get the first group out.

So I better get back to it!

Oh, first a Heads-Up  for those of you that are not on my email list yet:  There is a 25% discount for my subscribers through the end of March.  Sign up for my Enchanted Hen Newsletter (located to your right, on the sidebar) to get the coupon code.

Allright, I’m really going back to work now . . .

Nan

More Adventures with Ostrich Eggshell Jewelry

You know, I believe I discover something new every time I make a batch of jewelry.

Of course, I tend to discover it at the end of my batch instead of the beginning (where I could apply it to more pieces), but – oh well.  Next batch I can plan the design ahead and really experiment with this particular innovation.

It’s nothing real exciting (well, it is to me).  When dyeing the pieces, if I have a dark color background that has not been waxed, and I want to lighten it up a bit, I usually soak the shell piece in a weak solution of bleach.  I have to be careful though, because the bleach can dry out the shell (much like it does my fingers).  Then I brush it with an old toothbrush, maybe bleach some more until I get the result I want.

The thing about bleach and dyes, though – it doesn’t always clear out the color.  Sometimes it just fades the color to a dull version.  Blues are particularly hard to bleach.  Black is prettymuch impossible.

But – and if you have been following along – I had been using a vinegar etching technique on some brown eggs, and I wondered if it would remove dye.  So I tried it on a large oval brooch piece with the Rosette design on a black background.  I poured some undiluted white vinegar into a small bowl with the shell piece inside, enough to cover the surface.  Let it stew for about 5 minutes, and then removed the shell piece and brushed it lightly with a toothbrush under running water.

Before and after. Vinegar soak removes the black dye from an unwaxed surface

Voila!  It worked way better than the bleach, AND it did not fry my fingers to a chemical crisp!

The reason it works better, is that it actually removes a bit of the surface of the shell.  Whereas the bleach tries to alter the color.   And, of course, the wax is still protecting the design, so the only thing that gets altered is the un-waxed areas.

I was so pleased, I went back to all my (hundreds!) of finished pieces to see if I wanted any more with a white background.  Only found a few, but – like I said – next batch I’ll work with the technique a little more.

So, I learned a few things with this experiment:  (1) The dyes only penetrate the very surface of the eggshell, previously, I thought the dye saturated the shell.  (2) The dye remains in the little eggshell dimples and makes an interesting spotty effect that enhances the surface pattern.  And,  (3) Buy more white vinegar.

~Nan

In Production Mode: Making Ostrich Eggshell Jewelry

I have been making jewelry like crazy these past two months, shooting for a release date of March 1. And I would love to have a few pieces ready for Valentines Day, but don’t hold me to that.

So (since I don’t feel entirely productive unless I’m double-tasking), I thought I’d shoot a few pictures while I was working so you get an idea of what all goes into creating these little pieces of wearable art.

First I start with a clean ostrich shell. I can use broken shells instead of whole ones, which saves me a bit in materials cost.  By the way – I purchase my ostrich shells locally from Floeck’s Country Ranch an ostrich farm in Tucumcari, New Mexico.  They have nice healthy birds that produce wonderful strong shelled eggs.  I am so pleased with the quality, I thought I’d link them here.

But OK, on with the blog . . .

Ostrich eggshell and jewelry template

Using a plastic drafting template, I draw the outline of the jewelry piece directly on to the shell with a pencil. I try and fit in as many pieces as I can, while avoiding fractures in the shell, and any defects on the surface.

After I have the shell mapped out, I cut the pieces out with a diamond cutting wheel attached to a Dremel Rotary Tool,  being careful to leave cutting room around each piece. Note: If you are going to try this – be sure and wear face and eye protection. Meaning safety goggles and a good particle (dust) mask while you are cutting the shells.  You don’t want to breathe in the eggshell dust, or get any flying pieces in your eyes.

Design is drawn on and waxed over

Next, I start the design process. Drawing lightly with a pencil, I sketch out the basic design. Then, with a wax pen (kistka) I draw the edge of the jewelry piece, and any part of the design that is to remain white.

I continue with the wax and dye design – dipping the shell piece in dye, and then waxing over the area where I want that color. More dye, more wax, layer on layer, until the design is finished. And I have multicolored fingers.

I can then remove the wax by soaking it in a jar of naphtha until the wax is dissolved, rubbing the excess wax off with a tissue until the design underneath is revealed.

Giving the front side a light coat of varnish (rubbed on with my finger) to protect the color, it is now ready for epoxy fill.

Jewelry in process - front and back

Mixing small batches of two-part tabletop epoxy, I drop a small amount on to the back of the shell piece, and spread it around with a clean popsicle stick (or something similar) until the epoxy coats the back surface, and pools in the cup.

I set them on a rack, as shown, and tip the shell piece to center the epoxy so it cures nice and level in the shell.  I place the rack in a warm spot and place a plastic bin over it, to keep in the heat and prevent dust from adhering to the epoxy. This particular epoxy has to cure for two days.  Short-time cure epoxy’s are not as hard and  I want a glass-like surface.

This type of curing rack allows you to tip the shells slightly and allow the epoxy to level itself.

I picked a clear tabletop epoxy for optimum hardness, and so my signature shows through.

And for now, I’m in waiting mode. The pieces are curing, and they should be ready for more cutting tomorrow.

Egg Art: How to Achieve a Nice Even Varnish Coat on your Decorated Eggs (tutorial)

There are many ways to varnish an egg.  Some people prefer the spray varnish, some brush it on, some simply rub it on with their hands.  I use a combination of the rub-on technique and one I developed myself which I call the ‘Stake Method’.  The Stake Method allows the finish to dry without any contact and results in a nice smooth  coating with no fingerprint smears, or notches from a holder.

You can use regular varnish or polyurethane. I prefer the varnish because it results in a harder, thicker finish.  Marine varnish is the best.  Be sure you purchase clear varnish, you don’t want any tint in it.  You will need at least a quart size so you have room to lift the egg in and out of the can.

Materials you will need:

• Rotary Tool with a drill point.
• Blas-fix egg blower
• Minwax Clear Shield Or other clear varnish (quart size).
• Nail drying rack
• Bamboo Skewers
• Styrofoam block
• Clear bin

Lets begin where I left off in my last entry:  You have completed the design on your egg, and are ready to empty and varnish it. . .

Before I empty the eggs, I rub them with them a thin coat of varnish to 1) preserve the design if they are dyed eggs, and 2) add a little bit of strength to the shell while I am abusing it.

The rub-on technique is widely used, and you may already be familiar with it.  In a nutshell: Dab a little bit of clear varnish into the palm of your hand, and roll the egg around your palm until it is completely coated.  Then set the egg on a drying rack (simply made with small nails pounded in to a thin plank of wood – the egg sits on the pointy ends).  Let the varnish cure overnight.

First varnish sits on nail board.

To clean the varnish off your hands – rub them with plain vegetable cooking oil and then wipe it all off with a paper towel.

Next, drill a small hole with your rotary tool (Dremel), and use your egg  blower to empty the egg, following the directions on the package for your egg blower.  At this point, I inject a small amount of regular laundry bleach into the egg, shake it up, and rinse it again.  This disinfects the inside of the egg.

Set the eggs back inside an egg carton, hole side down, to drain.  Let them dry completely, occasionally dabbing the hole with a kleenex to wick any residual water that gathers at the hole.

When the eggs are completely dry (this should take at least a day, and 2 days is better), you are ready to apply the final coat of varnish.

Open your can of varnish. Insert the blunt end of a bamboo stake in through the hole of the egg. Dip the egg down into the varnish, stopping just short of covering the hole.  You do not want the varnish to get inside the egg, so leave a little void around the hole.

Dunk the egg into the can of varnish.

Using another stake or a wooden popsicle stick to support egg, slowly lift out the egg and turn it upright.  Let the excess varnish drain back into the can until the dripping slows.  The more you can drain off at this point, the easier it will be for you during the curing process.

Let the excess drain off.

Turn the egg straight up and stick the pointy end into the chunk of styrofoam.  More varnish will drip down the stake, and may travel down through the styrofoam block to the table below, so be sure and protect your surface. I use a flattened cardboard box placed underneath the block.

Sticking in a chunk of styrofoam to hold the eggs upright.

When all your eggs are planted in the styrofoam – all pretty like an egg garden – cover the batch with a clean clear bin.  This will keep dust and cat hair from sticking to the varnish while it cures.

Cover while the varnish cures.

During the cure time (at least 2 days), you will need to spin the eggs a few times so they do not glue themselves to the stake.  Use the pointy end of a bamboo stake to turn the egg gently on the stick and loosen the seal at the hole.  You should do this at first after an hour, and then again after another hour.  By that time, it will have hardened enough so the egg spins freely on the stake.

If they do manage to glue themselves to the stake, you can run a razor blade around the base of the egg where the stick enters the hole, to loosen it.

Note: I use this varnish technique for both my vinegar etched eggs and for my dyed (batik) eggs.

Tip: When drilling the hole in your egg, be sure the opening is large enough to accommodate the bamboo skewer.  Have a skewer handy to size the hole.

Questions and comments are welcome.  Happy egging!

~Nan

How To Decorate an Egg Using Vinegar Etching (tutorial)

Vinegar etching is easy to do, and can produce dramatic results. Native American pottery and petroglyph designs are particularly adaptable to this method, as they use minimal colors and depend largely on pattern and design.

Here are the materials you will need:

These are some of the tools you will need

A regular pencil (medium or hard graphite is best).

A white, non abrasive, eraser (Pentel makes these).

A Kistka wax pen, either electric or manual (candle heated), and beeswax strips.

A section of measuring tape for mapping the egg design.

A toothbrush, for removing surface.

An egg blower (Blas-fix is shown).

Not shown: White vinegar, naphtha (for removing the wax), Kleenex. And a clean brown chicken egg.  Leave the insides in the egg for weight – you will empty it later.

Step 1: Lightly, with pencil, draw lines dividing the egg in eight sections.  Vertically (top to bottom) in quarters, and then horizontally around the middle.  This will help to keep your design organized and centered.  Make more divisions as desired.  Lightly sketch in your design.

Mapped lightly with pencil

Step 2: With your kistka (wax pen), fill in the design.  You will be waxing over the parts that you want to remain the brown color of the eggshell.  The negative (non waxed) space will be very light, almost white when you are finished etching.

Partially waxed in

Step 3: When the design is completely waxed in, set the egg in a jar of white vinegar.  Assure that the egg is submerged completely in the vinegar.

Soaking in white vinegar bath

Note: Bubbles will form on the surface of the egg because of the reaction of calcium to vinegar.  These bubbles will float the egg like a lifejacket. You’ll want to spoon the egg out a few times during the etching process so the bubbles can disintegrate and allow the egg to sink to the bottom again.

Step 4: The egg should take anywhere from 15-30 minutes for the brown surface to dissolve.  Remove the egg and brush the surface lightly with the toothbrush to remove the residue. Sometimes, the bubbles that have formed will prevent the etching and you will have a spotted surface.  You may re-submerge the egg in the vinegar if you want to remove more surface.

Unwaxed surface is etched off

Step 5: Now, you can remove the wax.  Lower the egg into a glass jar of naphtha, and let it work for about 5-10 minutes.  Spoon the egg out carefully and grasp it with a Kleenex.  The egg will be very slippery, so support it with the spoon until you have a good hold on it.  Wipe the surface with the Kleenex, rolling it around in the palm of your hand, until the wax is removed.  Give it a second dunk, and wipe with a clean Kleenex to remove any residual wax.

Wax is removed to reveal the design. The brown areas are the natural shell color.

Note:  I use naphtha (available at hardware stores) because it works quickly.  But it is harsh on your hands.  And extremely flammable.  You may also remove the wax by heating it with a candle and melting off the wax.  Be careful not to cook the egg inside, or you will never get it emptied.

The egg is now ready to empty and varnish.

I am working on a batch of eggs and writing this tutorial at the same time, so I can take pictures of the process.  I am now at the point of removing the wax from the batch of eggs.  Watch for another tutorial when I get ready to empty and varnish the eggs!

Hahaha – this little Dark Eyed Junco flew in the open door to check out what I was doing.  He must be wondering what kind of bird lays THOSE eggs!

A birds eye view of my eggs in process.

You can purchase the supplies online. I order my supplies from the following stores:
The Ukrainian Gift Shop
The Polish Art Center

Here is a book available at Amazon, which includes a chapter on Vinegar Etched Eggs:
Artful Eggs: Six Dozen Extraordinary Ways to Decorate an Egg

Questions? Feel free to post them in the Comments section below (click on the Comments link).

~Nan.

California Sister Butterfly – my new BFF

There are advantages to hanging your laundry out in the air to dry.  Fresh clothes.  Zero energy cost.  And the stretching and reaching motion opens up your chest and allows all that good air to flush out the unused areas of your lungs.  It’s therapy – yeah.

Not to mention the critters.

So I’m puttering around the backyard, hanging up laundry – and this pretty thing is fluttering along behind me trying to land on me.  She must have been attracted to the white T-Shirt I was wearing, because she was very insistent.

California Sister Butterfly

Isn’t she pretty?  When I was finished hanging the clothes up to dry, I went to the computer to try and identify it.  They are known as either “California Sister” or “Arizona Sister” butterflies.  The “sister” part, is because the white markings look like a nuns habit.

I tried to move her from my shirt and put her on the tomato plant, several times.  I was afraid she would get hurt riding on my back while I was tossing clothes around.  She finally fluttered off, no doubt in search of a stationary T-Shirt.

I love the blue markings up near the top.  These are pretty large butterflies.  Here’s a picture of her on my hand, you can get a better idea of the size.

California Sister Butterfly on my hand

Recommended Books for Eggers

There are several books I can recommend, that will help the beginning egger to get started, or for the veteran egger to possibly move in new directions with our craft. These images lead to Amazon.com pages, where you can read more and purchase them if you like. Here they are, in order of my favorites:

For the accomplished egger, I highly recommend this book Decorating Eggs by Jane Pollak. There are several different projects you can do with eggs, including Hanging Christmas Ornament eggs, of which I have made several batches and given as gifts. They are easy to make, and look wonderful on your tree. Also included in this book is the procedure for making eggshell jewelry. While Ms Pollak makes hers out of goose eggs, I have altered the process a bit to use ostrich eggs for my jewelry. But the basics are the same. Lots of good stuff here.

The books I started with are this series written by the women at the Ukrainian Gift Shop in Roseville Minnesota These have clear directions, drawings, and photographs, and each provide a short history of the symbols and colors used in the art of pysanka. After completing the all the exercises in these books, it naturally lead to design ideas, and a desire to continue in my own direction with this fascinating art.

Ukrainian Easter Eggs and How We Make Them
Author: Anne Kmit, Loretta L. Luciow

Eggs Beautiful
Author: Johanna Luciow

Ukrainian Design Book I
Author: Natalie and Luba Perchyshyn

Ukrainian Easter Egg Design Book 3
Author: Natalie Perchyshyn

Ukrainian Easter Egg Design Book 4
Author: Natalie Perchyshyn

So there you are – have at it!

Nan

The Search For The Perfect Egg Stand

One of my favorite ways to kill time on the internet is to search for egg stands and displays. I can easily buy standard round footed egg stands of course, and do – as you can see on my website and my eBay listings. But hunting and discovering unusual egg stands is such fun!

Several years ago, I ran across these handmade stands by Phyllis at Ponypeople – Horseshoe Nail Art. Created from (of all things) horseshoe nails! I love these. They are rustic, unusual, they can be bent to fit the egg, and the surface area is minimal so it does not cover too much of the egg. Here is an example on one of my original Trypillian style designs – the Ibex Egg

Other finds include . . .
A ceramic egg dish from Norway. The egg cup indent is offset to display the hand painted flowers.

Another handmade ceramic egg dish, the rich gold and black glazing compliments the golden wheat design beautifully

A twisted hank of seaweed found on the beach at Santa Catalina Island, California – perfect for the fish egg

Grapevine birds nests and little wicker baskets purchased at a crafts store, and added dried foliage.

And this goofy wooden egg cup from Germany. I bought a set of these in several color combination’s – I called them my ‘Mad Hen Cups’

Aint she cute?

Pysanky Jewelry: Finding A Design

I’ve been searching through my images, looking for some eggs that match jewelry so I can show you how the transition happens. Surprisingly, I have very few that apply! Many of the Ukrainian designs are found in picture books of eggs, and my egg posters. But I did find a few examples.

When designing pysanky jewelry I like to keep to the traditional symbols and colors because, well, after all – that’s what makes it Pysanky Jewelry! I try not to deviate at all, as all the colors and symbols have a specific meaning.

I love doing these rectangular pins and they are fairly popular, as I sell out of them almost as fast as I can turn them out. They are compact, measuring about 1-1/2 inches across, with a common design and subtle enough that they can be worn by both men and women. They look best as a lapel pin on a dark suit.

Pysanka with star clusters

Pin with star clusters

Pysanka side band design

Pin with side band design

Here are a few more examples of the rectangular pins:

Star band with harvest wheat

Three Windows (in colors of the Ukrainian Flag)

Star and Cross quilt design

Sometimes the designs are obvious, sometimes they are hiding in a tiny section of the egg. I enjoy finding these little gems and dragging them out into the light by featuring them on a piece of jewelry.

Re-posted from October 31, 2007