Nanette Thorell

In Production Mode: Making Ostrich Eggshell Jewelry

I have been making jewelry like crazy these past two months, shooting for a release date of March 1. And I would love to have a few pieces ready for Valentines Day, but don’t hold me to that.

So (since I don’t feel entirely productive unless I’m double-tasking), I thought I’d shoot a few pictures while I was working so you get an idea of what all goes into creating these little pieces of wearable art.

First I start with a clean ostrich shell. I can use broken shells instead of whole ones, which saves me a bit in materials cost.  By the way – I purchase my ostrich shells locally from Floeck’s Country Ranch an ostrich farm in Tucumcari, New Mexico.  They have nice healthy birds that produce wonderful strong shelled eggs.  I am so pleased with the quality, I thought I’d link them here.

But OK, on with the blog . . .

Ostrich eggshell and jewelry template

Using a plastic drafting template, I draw the outline of the jewelry piece directly on to the shell with a pencil. I try and fit in as many pieces as I can, while avoiding fractures in the shell, and any defects on the surface.

After I have the shell mapped out, I cut the pieces out with a diamond cutting wheel attached to a Dremel Rotary Tool,  being careful to leave cutting room around each piece. Note: If you are going to try this – be sure and wear face and eye protection. Meaning safety goggles and a good particle (dust) mask while you are cutting the shells.  You don’t want to breathe in the eggshell dust, or get any flying pieces in your eyes.

Design is drawn on and waxed over

Next, I start the design process. Drawing lightly with a pencil, I sketch out the basic design. Then, with a wax pen (kistka) I draw the edge of the jewelry piece, and any part of the design that is to remain white.

I continue with the wax and dye design – dipping the shell piece in dye, and then waxing over the area where I want that color. More dye, more wax, layer on layer, until the design is finished. And I have multicolored fingers.

I can then remove the wax by soaking it in a jar of naphtha until the wax is dissolved, rubbing the excess wax off with a tissue until the design underneath is revealed.

Giving the front side a light coat of varnish (rubbed on with my finger) to protect the color, it is now ready for epoxy fill.

Jewelry in process - front and back

Mixing small batches of two-part tabletop epoxy, I drop a small amount on to the back of the shell piece, and spread it around with a clean popsicle stick (or something similar) until the epoxy coats the back surface, and pools in the cup.

I set them on a rack, as shown, and tip the shell piece to center the epoxy so it cures nice and level in the shell.  I place the rack in a warm spot and place a plastic bin over it, to keep in the heat and prevent dust from adhering to the epoxy. This particular epoxy has to cure for two days.  Short-time cure epoxy’s are not as hard and  I want a glass-like surface.

This type of curing rack allows you to tip the shells slightly and allow the epoxy to level itself.

I picked a clear tabletop epoxy for optimum hardness, and so my signature shows through.

And for now, I’m in waiting mode. The pieces are curing, and they should be ready for more cutting tomorrow.